First time - Fridge Smoker.

[XLR8R]

Hi All! I just purchased a circa 1950 Crosley Shelvador fridge. I know I need to remove the inside door panel as it is not metal. Also the rubber trimseal would have to go. The grey trim around the main unit is also not metal. Should I remove that too?

What is my best solution for replacing these panels/parts? Should I use piece(s) of plywood or go with sheet metal?

I am thinking of adding 3 more shelves. venting out the top and bottom side. I'll also use a single hot plate for my chips, hopefully in the bottom drawer compartment.

I am a seasoned smoker (no pun intended) with many types of available units both hot and cold but have never used an old fridge - so I would appreciate all comments and tips!

Thanks everyone!

Rick - Vancouver, BC Canada

[Richtee]

What is the insulation? And what is your intended use? You prolly are good to go for a cool/cold smoker application.

[Texas-Hunter]

Man it is amazing how many of you guys find these OLD frig's in such great shape.. The ones I see here Texas way look like the fell from a moving truck or the space lab and hit the ground..

There are a few guys here that have similar builds.. Hang tight and check back often.. They will get you some answers..

[XLR8R]

Thanks for the replies: Is it possible to use it for a cold and hot smoker? My original intent is for cold (salmon) smoking. I picked up this unit (stripped) for 50 bucks.

[Richtee]

You'll need to strip off the plastic/rubber and check the insulation inside for hot smoke.

[XLR8R]

I guess I'll find insulation when I remove the door panel and main trim(s)

[mulepackin]

I've always wanted one with a bottom compartment. It will lend itself well to a hot/cold smoker. If I did one, I would put my smoke generation heat source in the bottom, duct it up into the top. You will get a small amt. of heat up there but not a lot. Then if you wanted a hot smoke, simply add an addition heat source in the upper chamber as well. I would sure try to go with sheet metal in the door if possible. Should be a great build!

[aczeller]

well, it sounds like you are going electric. I am in my second fridge build now (first was wood/charcoal, this one is going to be electric). more than likely, you have fiberglass insulation. you are going to have a few areas that you will want to patch, but you don't really have to if you don't want to spend the cash or don't have a source for it. Duct liner works great.

after you get the rubber and plastic out, you COULD use wood if you wanted, but i would go the route of sheet metal. non-galvanized is better than galv and stainless is best. I got a few sheets of stainless for free from work, so that's what I always use (or will use until my stash runs out). if I had to buy new metal, I would go with some 20, 18, or 16 gauge bare steel... cold rolled will be nice and smooth. once you get the "gook" buildup, it shouldn't rust *bout you already know this).

your intakes don't need to be very big at all, especially if you are running electric. the flue should be fine at 4" round. any bigger and you may have draft problems. hell, 3" may work just fine as well.

whatever plastic pieces you remove, keep them and use them as templates for the metal replacement parts. any holes/cracks need to be sealed with either high-temp RTV or fire caulk. firecaulk works best for me because it comes in a caulk-gun tube. RTV is in the little tooth=paste tubes. However, firecaulk is brittle and will chip away over time. RTV stays flexible. I prefer the stuff with copper in it since it has the highest heat rating.

do a search for fridge smokers and you will see how I prefer to do my gaskets... if there is one spot to not skimp on the money, it would be the gasket. get yourself a good tadpole gasket and sandwich the "tail" between the outter door skin and the overlapping inner door skin. VERY clean and will last forever if done right.

Later,
Andy

[DangerDan]

I'd remove the grey piece as carefully as possible and have a new piece cut out of 1/8" material. Unless of course you have a plasma cutter. It would certainly be a challenge to cut a new piece in with a saw. I had to change mine out too but had a more square shape to deal with. Take what you need from this thread if you like.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3970

[XLR8R]

Hey thanks for your input guys! Much appreciated. I'm contemplating all before I even start this. Keep those ideas and experiences coming please.

[killswitch505]

you find most of the stuff you'll need here (I.E. latches, high time insulation, food grade high temp silicone all kinds of stuff) http://www.mcmaster.com/# its a great site it can be pricey but i find what i'm looking for on their site get the part number or item name google it and try to find it cheaper.

[aczeller]

you find most of the stuff you'll need here (I.E. latches, high time insulation, food grade high temp silicone all kinds of stuff) http://www.mcmaster.com/# its a great site it can be pricey but i find what i'm looking for on their site get the part number or item name google it and try to find it cheaper.

x2... McMaster-Carr, MSC Industrial, and Grainger's are all pretty similar. I have noticed that one place may be cheaper for one part, but it might be a lot more expensive on another. However, between those 3, you should never have to go anywhere for anything else again... literally. i am pretty sure you can even get toilet paper from them if you want. lol

Later,
Andy

[butcher]

yep, removing the inside door panel will reveal what insulation has been used, you don't want it if it is styrofoam!! If it is a fiberglass style your ok, most fridges pre 1961 are fiberglass... I made one out of a 1951 International Harvestor and use it for hot smoking, as soon as I get my hands on an "amazing pellet smoker" I will use it for cold smoking. here are some pics of mine, and don't be shy to In box me any questions :)

[butcher]

[Richtee]

Sonnnabitch. look at that. I think I wet myself.