GMG Davy Crockett igniter info

[Mark R]

Just in case someone else has a Davy Crockett and needs to replace the igniter.
The instruction video is not correct. The igniter does not connect inside the cooking chamber. You have to remove the pellet hopper to disconnect and reconnect the igniter. Yes my hands got dirty. But I do have a Mini WSM!
Their customer service was quick to respond when asked (by email) and confirm my (WTF) query. They are not expensive and it is not difficult... once you are looking in the right place.
My grill is 5 years old and I use it a fair amount of the time. I am pretty happy with it. It is easy, consistent and convenient when you're cooking smaller amounts and/or not able (or willing) to baby sit the smoker.
My unit does not have WIFI, if the controller goes bad I will have to convert it (I think) ($159) as I don't see the non-WIFI in their available parts.
https://greenmountaingrills.com/support/davy-crockett/

[SMOKE FREAK]

Biggest problem I ever had with my Weber was a flat tire

[Mark R]

Biggest problem I ever had with my Weber was a flat tire

And You are the ONLY one ever with Weber flat tire!

My Mini WSM to the rescue, all was well.

[zombini]

Knock on wood...Daniel Boone is still hanging in there. Thanks for the info.

[Mark R]

Knock on wood...Daniel Boone is still hanging in there. Thanks for the info.

They are only $12.95 and it's not difficult. If it starts to smoke....."different", order one. If it's 5 or 6 years old.

[Mark R]

This is the email I just sent to GMG. We'll see if they respond.

" Okay, the new igniter ohms out the same as the old one. It is installed now, but the auger is not running. When I disassembled the unit the fire pot was full of pellets so I assumed that the auger was working. I tested the auger motor directly and it worked fine. I then reassembled the unit (again), auger still not working! I then pulled the controller "loose", but still connected and tried again. When I wiggled the wires in the multi connector, the auger came back on? I remover the power and disconnected the multi connector. The pins on the controller looked fine, so I removed the female connectors on the multi for the auger, one had a carbon build up on it. I then using 160gt sandpaper, sanded the carbon off. As long as I was there I did the same for the igniter, one contact also had carbon built up on it. Reassembled the unit, works fine now.
1. The igniter was NOT bad to start with. A reading of '0' ohms implies 0 resistance, not high resistance!
2. The problem was the multi connector all along! I'm not sure if you can tell a customer to clean those contacts as I did, but having a replacement wiring harness available would be a good option. But then the customer would have to be able to check the continuity of the igniter.

Another note, the connectors for the fan are designed for 16 or 12 gauge wire. It is difficult to disconnect them without breaking one or both wires, I broke both and had to solder them back. A more appropriate connector, like on the thermal sensor might be a good idea.

Mark"

The previous emails

Dan replied:

Mark, you should have a reading of on that scale It appears the igntier is not open just has a really high ohms reading. If you replace the igntier you will solve this issue.

Thank you
GMG Support
JUN 12, 2018 | 10:27AM PDT
rchaux replied:
Reading on 200K scale - 0

Dan replied:

Mark, what are the ohms reading?

GMG
JUN 12, 2018 | 10:21AM PDT
rchaux replied:
I have it out now, but it ohms as a closed circuit, not open???
If it was bad I would think it would be open???

[Mark R]

This is the email I just sent to GMG. We'll see if they respond.

" Okay, the new igniter ohms out the same as the old one. It is installed now, but the auger is not running. When I disassembled the unit the fire pot was full of pellets so I assumed that the auger was working. I tested the auger motor directly and it worked fine. I then reassembled the unit (again), auger still not working! I then pulled the controller "loose", but still connected and tried again. When I wiggled the wires in the multi connector, the auger came back on? I remover the power and disconnected the multi connector. The pins on the controller looked fine, so I removed the female connectors on the multi for the auger, one had a carbon build up on it. I then using 160gt sandpaper, sanded the carbon off. As long as I was there I did the same for the igniter, one contact also had carbon built up on it. Reassembled the unit, works fine now.
1. The igniter was NOT bad to start with. A reading of '0' ohms implies 0 resistance, not high resistance!
2. The problem was the multi connector all along! I'm not sure if you can tell a customer to clean those contacts as I did, but having a replacement wiring harness available would be a good option. But then the customer would have to be able to check the continuity of the igniter.

Another note, the connectors for the fan are designed for 16 or 12 gauge wire. It is difficult to disconnect them without breaking one or both wires, I broke both and had to solder them back. A more appropriate connector, like on the thermal sensor might be a good idea.

Mark"

The previous emails

This was their response..

Hi Mark,

Give us a call at 530-347-9167 OPT 1 if you need us.

Best
GMG

I would have been better off just going it alone.

[HawgHeaven]

I never have those kinda problems with my Webers...

[zombini]

Is it working now?

[Mark R]

Is it working now?

Yes.

[Mark R]

I never have those kinda problems with my Webers...

Yea, the problems there involve the cookerer!

And the SIL!!!!!